France - Capbreton

by Kimp 10. December 2016 11:31

Welcome !!!

Photo Blog (Click to view)

Short old dude walking slowly down the boardwalk, wearing a beret, stopping occasionally to take a bite out of a fresh baguette that he just bought at the bakery. Check! Overweight old dude wading in ankle deep water wearing nothing but a speedo. Check! Women who are saving money by only buying bikini bottoms, occasionally ask me to take a picture of them and their friends, using their camera. Check! Yep, I must in France. One of these days, I am going to swap their camera for mine (Gee I know that dude took several pictures of us. He was even posing us! I wonder where those pictures are?).

The reason we see so many men in speedo's in France, is because French public pools do not allow any other attire to be worn in their pools. So that is all they buy, and all are comfortable wearing the same thing in the Ocean. It has to do with personal hygiene. The French do not allow anything to be worn in a pool that could have been worn as general attire before or outside of the pool area. Nobody would wear a speedo outside of the pool area, so it fits the bill. They do not want any dirt or contaminates to be washed off in the water, so if they let someone in the pool who was wearing fashionable swim shorts, they run that risk.

My History

I have never been a surfer myself, but my best friend from the Navy, Paul, moved to Oceanside California after he got out of the Navy and took up surfing as a hobby. Oceanside is a perfect location, about mid-way between San Diego and Los Angles. Every day has a high of about 80 degrees and a low of about 60 degrees. Some cheap type of heating is needed for some of the cooler nights, but no air conditioning is needed, because there is always a cool breeze blowing in from the ocean.

The Pacific Coast is much cooler than the Atlantic coast. The water on North America's West coast flows down from the Arctic, and the water on North America's East coast flows up from the tropics. Surfing in Southern California, often requires some type of wet suit to stay warm.

Paul always seemed to maintain a fairly simple and high quality of life on a tight budget. His surf mainstay was the popular San Onofre beach location, that draws 400,000 surfers per year, but he often traveled to the bluff's in Baja and the big waves in Oahu and Kauai. He was big in pre-computerized social media, maintaining a free surf paper that he published, about what was going on and where, what he had done, and where he was headed next. Surf comics and all. My favorite part of my post Navy time with Paul, was the hammock on his covered side patio in Oceanside, that was perfect for napping in the middle of the day. Then there were the Eddie Money concerts on the beach there, and a bachelor party on the bluffs in Baja that Paul and I were invited to, that were special in their own way too. 

Surf Slang

Boardshorts - a special type of shorts that surfers wear. They usually only have one pocket (a single back pocket with a flap), are straight legged, are worn mildly tight and have some type of built in belt or pull tie.

Hodad - A person who doesn't really surf, but pretends to, and hangs around great surfing places.

Kook - Person who wants to be a surfer, but has been trying for a long time and still has limited skill.

Grom - a surfer under the age of 16.

Front side - Surfing with your front facing the wave.

Back side - Surfing with your back facing the wave.

Natural foot - When the right foot is farthest back on the board.

Cross step - Crossing one foot over the other to move up on the board.

Gas chamber - being inside of the tunnel on a breaking wave.

Switch back - Surfing a figure 8 on the front of the wave.

Reentry - Hitting the top lip of the wave with the board vertical, then reentering the wave on the drop.

Aerial - What makes the crowd go Ohhh - Ahhh. Riding up the wave until airborne, then turning and landing right on the break.

Stall - Riding very far back on the board and putting a hand in the wave to slow down and stay in the pocket.

Floater - Riding on the very top of the wave, then eventually turning down.

Wave Breaks

There are several different conditions that cause a wave to break. Most common are underwater obstructions, such as coral or the peak of a large underwater rock. Consistent Beach Breaks are fairly rare, that is when the water over the shallow water in a beach. It takes a lot of water power to cause a beach break.


Every October, Hurricane's stir up the Atlantic Ocean in about the same location, about 100 miles off the coast of France. The water transfer's that energy all of the way to Hossegor.

Hossegor beach is considered the worlds best Beach Break, with waves of up to 20 feet. These vary from day to day. 10 feet is considered good at Hossegor. Not sure, but I think they still compete if the waves are 6-8 feet high. Every morning an official observes the wave action to determine if they are going to compete that day and exactly where the surf lane will be. The surf lane is marked by large black and white floating cubes anchored to the bottom so they don't move. Hossegor is a beautiful location, and some professional surfer's choose this as their permanent home.

This WSL event held here every year and is prefixed with the sponsors names. Quicksilver Pro 2015 was the one that I was at.

World Surf League Rules

To get the most out of watching it is handy to know a little bit about the competition. WSL is one of the surf leagues, they have their own rules and for the most part are fairly simple.

There several tours each with a qualifying series to get into the tour:

1. Championship Tour (CT) - A tour consisting of all wave types. 

2. Big Wave Tour (BWT) - A tour where the waves are a minimum of 30 feet high (typically greater than 50 feet).

3. Longboard Tour (LT) - Longboards are more stable and easier to maneuver, but are also slower to maneuver and slower to pick up speed. Therefore, they are on a separate tour schedule. More grace, but less excitement in my opinion.

Contestants - consist of the top 36 male surfers and top 18 female surfers of the current year.

Tour - A tour is made up of several events (usually 10 or 11) that are spread out throughout the surf year (March - December). Mens events are in different location's then the Womens events are (They have separate schedules). Not every location on a given tour is surfed every year, some locations are changed from year to year, but are always announced before the surf year starts.

Event - Each event is split up in to many rounds and can last several weeks in length.

Ranking - Each event awards a number of points based on the surfers position in that event (10,000 for 1st, 8,000 for second, etc). Those event points are added together to create an overall tour ranking for each surfer.

Round/Heat - Each round consist of grouping of surfers (2-4), called heats, that all surf at the same time. The winner of a heat advances one or two rounds ahead, and the losers battle it out in each round until eliminated. In the later rounds, it is single elimination, with only the winner advancing, until one surfer is left.

Scoring - The max score for a single wave is 10. There are 5 judges, the highest and lowest scorers are thrown out and the middle three are averaged together. The score from the top two waves of a heat are the only ones kept, and they are added together for a maximum heat score of 20.

Interference - On any given wave, only one surfer in the water has priority. If they stand up on a wave, the others must abort and get out of their way. The priority position changes when the priority person stands up on a wave. The penalty for interference of priority, is that surfer only gets to count one wave in that heat, which most certainly will result in a lose for that heat.

Photo Blog (Click to view)

Thank you for reading,

I'll see you next time.



Comments (1) -

Steve Holdorf
12/11/2016 8:32:40 AM #

Spreken se douche? You really do know how to enjoy life Craig!


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